Toki Suntory Whiskey and the Rise of Japanese Whisky

Why is Japanese whisky so popular?

Three things came together: craftsmanship, awards and scarcity. Japanese distillers built their reputation on precision and balance, then a run of wins in international blind tastings in the 2000s and 2010s introduced the style to a global audience. When stock of aged whisky is limited, a spike in demand pushes prices up quickly.

Japanese whisky also tastes distinctive. It tends to be delicate, layered and fragrant, with fruit, honey and subtle smoke rather than the heavy peat of some Scotch. That makes it a good fit for people who prefer elegance to power.

What is the difference between Nikka and Suntory?

Nikka was founded by Masataka Taketsuru, who learned whisky-making in Scotland and brought that training back to Japan. Its distilleries at Yoichi (Hokkaido) and Miyagikyo (Miyagi) make different styles, with Yoichi known for richer, more robust malt and Miyagikyo for softer, fruitier whisky.

Suntory, founded by Shinjiro Torii, owns Yamazaki, Hakushu and Chita and is behind Hibiki. Yamazaki, founded in 1923, was Japan’s first malt whisky distillery. Both companies rely on blending skill and a wide palette of casks, including Japanese mizunara oak.

What is mizunara oak?

Mizunara is Japanese oak. It is difficult to work with and slow to grow, and casks leak more than American or European oak, so they are expensive. In return it can give distinctive notes of sandalwood, incense, coconut and spice.

Not every Japanese whisky uses it, and mizunara is more often a component or finish than the whole story. It is, however, one reason top-end Japanese bottlings taste different from Scotch of a similar age.

What do the 2021 labelling rules change?

For years, “Japanese whisky” on a label did not guarantee the whisky was made in Japan, because bottlers could blend in imported whisky. In 2021, the Japan Spirits & Liqueurs Makers Association introduced a voluntary standard with a transition period. To use the term Japanese whisky, the spirit should be saccharified, fermented, distilled and aged in Japan for at least three years in wooden casks, then bottled in Japan at 40% ABV or more.

The rules are voluntary, so check labels from smaller brands. Reputable producers such as Nikka and Suntory state clearly where and how their whisky is made.

Which Nikka and Yamazaki bottles are worth trying?

Nikka From The Barrel is a high-strength blend that has become a modern classic. Nikka 12 and the Taketsuru Pure Malt line show the brand’s house style across ages, and the Yamazaki 18 is a benchmark single malt for collectors.

See the range in our Japanese whisky collection. Good places to start are Nikka 12 for a balanced everyday dram or the Nikka Taketsuru 21 Year Old for a special occasion.

Explore: Shop Japanese whisky

How do you spot a genuine bottle?

Counterfeits and relabelled bottles exist in the rare whisky market. Buy from reputable sellers, check the packaging, bottle weight, label printing, batch codes and fill level, and be wary of prices that seem too good to be true.

If you are weighing a bottle as an investment, read our guide to investing in rare whisky first, and learn how to store it properly.

How should you drink Japanese whisky?

Japanese whisky is often served as a highball, with chilled soda and a lot of ice, which highlights its clean, fragrant character. Neat or with a drop of water is better for aged expressions. Mizuwari, whisky diluted with cold water over ice, is a traditional way to drink it with food.

Serve in a small tulip glass for neat tasting and a tall chilled glass for highballs.

How do Yoichi, Miyagikyo, Yamazaki and Hakushu differ?

Each distillery has its own character. Nikka’s Yoichi, in Hokkaido, uses direct coal-fired stills for a robust, slightly smoky and maritime malt. Miyagikyo, in Miyagi, is softer, floral and fruity. Suntory’s Yamazaki, near Kyoto, produces fruit, spice and sweet oak, while Hakushu, in the Southern Alps, is fresh, green and lightly smoky.

Because Japanese distillers do not trade casks, each company makes a range of malts in-house to blend. That is why blending skill matters so much. See Nikka and Yamazaki bottles in our Japanese whisky collection.

What do pure malt, blended and highball mean?

Nikka uses “pure malt” for a blend of malt whiskies only, with no grain whisky, similar to a Scottish blended malt. A “blended” whisky combines malt and grain whisky. A highball is whisky and sparkling water over ice, a hugely popular Japanese serve. Mizuwari is whisky diluted with cold still water, often at a 1:2 or 1:3 ratio, and served with meals.

Knowing these terms helps you decide what to buy. For a first bottle, a pure malt such as Nikka Taketsuru is a good way to taste the house style.

What should you watch out for when buying?

Demand has pushed prices up, and shortages mean some age-stated bottles are rare. Check the labelling, since only whisky meeting the 2021 standard is certain to be made in Japan, and buy from reputable sellers who source stock properly.

Be careful with very cheap “Japanese-style” whisky, which may be a blend of imported whisky bottled in Japan. A gift box, a clear age statement and a recognised producer are signs you are buying the real thing. Buyers must be 18 or over.

What does Japanese whisky taste like?

Expect elegance rather than power: orchard fruit, honey, white flowers, gentle spice and subtle smoke, with a clean, long finish. Nikka’s malts are often richer and more robust, while Suntory’s Yamazaki leans towards fruit and sweet oak, and Hakushu towards freshness and herbs.

If you like Speyside Scotch, you will likely enjoy Japanese whisky. If you prefer smoky Islay styles, look for Yoichi or other peated expressions.